Beauty, Glamour + Fashion


Wedding Photographer Jerry Ghionis Breaks Down the Process of Creating an Entirely New Body of Work

September 28, 2018

By Jerry Ghionis

All Photos © Jerry Ghionis Photography

From edgy and sultry to Hollywood glam, this image was shot with full sun against a white wall on my rooftop studio.

After shooting over 1,000 weddings and countless portrait sessions, I decided to set aside two months and give myself a creative break by only photographing for myself. During those two months, we did not book any weddings, events or commissioned portraits. I was just shooting for my soul. I even started to do more work in the studio. It had been a while since I had shot in the studio regularly, but I found it exhilarating and I created an entirely new body of work. That new portfolio then evolved into providing me with regular income as a portrait and fashion photographer in Los Angeles, and now in my new hometown of Las Vegas.

I have always gravitated toward a fashion and beauty style, but fashion and beauty photography is so much more than merely showing the beauty of your subject and selling clothes. I always strive to capture the spirit, soul, confidence, culture and individuality of the people I photograph. I also don’t want to specialize in just one approach to my fashion and beauty sessions, so I shoot in full sun, in the studio with strobes, speed lights, window light, constant lights and pretty much anything that illuminates. The look of my subjects—their face, hair, body, the dress and personality of the models—will often tell me what to do. The key is that you have to “listen” to what the circumstances are saying to you. Whether it’s a portrait for a domestic client or a commercial client, I always aim to meet their expectations, but I also always try to exceed them by taking creative risks that pay off.

 

Over time, I have gathered an extensive collection of clothing and accessories for my shoots, something that is essential in shooting fashion because more choice allows for greater spontaneity. The following images were created in Los Angeles for a fashion client during a session with a model from Melbourne, Nicole Melrose, who was visiting at the time. It started with this first image [above] taken in the studio using window light, which was a very different look for me.

We quickly changed to a chain dress for an edgier look [above]. Window light was also used, and a shallow depth of field at f/1.4.

I noticed a beautiful quality of light in a different room of my apartment with sunlight through a window acting as the main light and reflecting off a door to backlight her as well [above].

I wanted a bit more of an avant-garde feel, so I shot with full sun against a white wall on my rooftop studio [4].

As the sun was getting lower, we quickly changed Nicole into a more glamorous gown and used the sun reflected off a painted wall to illuminate her for this kitsch pin-up look [above].

As a finale for this shoot, we decided to go for a raw look with this shoulder accessory but placed it on her head to take advantage of the dramatic shadows [above].

The bottom line: Don’t be so predictable with your shoots. If you shoot fashion or beauty, don’t be satisfied with the mere exterior look of your subjects. Strive for something deeper. Don’t always believe a fashion client or domestic client knows what they want; most don’t know what they want until it’s presented to them. Meeting your client’s expectations is doing what you have to do. Exceeding their expectations is usually doing what you want to do.

How to Source Your Shoots

We’ve all had that one shoot where your clients make terrible clothing choices, or you’re missing that unique accessory that could elevate your image to a timeless work of art. For the last few years, I’ve actually spent more time at female clothing stores, looking for that next dress, skirt, prop or accessory that will make my models and subjects shine brighter. The key is to have plenty of choices available to you.

For example, you can buy great costume jewelry for just a few dollars. I have a collection of silver and gold rings, bracelets earrings, necklaces and headpieces that I’ve accumulated over the years. I also have hats, scarves, gloves, skirts and dresses in various sizes. When my wife, Melissa, is tired of some of her clothing, I add them to my fashion wardrobe for future shoots.

I’m gathering quite the collection of fashion and accessories that I am able to use numerous times for different concept shoots. I also have several pairs of nude and black color shoes in a variety of sizes. With experience, you quickly learn the disposable essentials that you need to have available, including silicone strapless bras and pasties.

I remember asking my mom for a fur coat that she hadn’t worn for decades for a future prop. It’s the same coat that is featured here [above], along with a pearl necklace (also costume jewelry) that I bought for under $10.

I bought the tiger pattern robe [above] from a former Cirque du Soleil performer here in Las Vegas who now designs clothing. I had no immediate need or purpose for it, but it ended up being featured in one of my shoots. The model was getting very hot in the summer heat, so I encouraged her to take a dip in our pool before she left. I ended the shoot by photographing her on a 4 x 8-foot whiteboard in full sun, using leaves from our garden to create dramatic shadowing [below].

An idea can start with finding a piece of clothing or accessory that inspires a whole shoot. A waitress you meet at a restaurant could be your next model. But an idea is meaningless unless it turns into action.

I encourage you to do at least one shoot a month that is purely for you. Put it into your calendar as if it’s for a paying client. Look forward to it, plan it and play with the same enthusiasm as if it was your first shoot. It will not only feed your soul, but also be a perfect practice session to add that extra flavor and energy for your next session.

Widely regarded as one of the best wedding/portrait photographers and educators in the world, Jerry Ghionis is a USA Nikon Ambassador and has won more awards than any other photographer at WPPI where he became the first Grand Master.

Related: How Award-Winning Photographer and Educator Jerry Ghionis Avoids Burnout

The Evolution of Sue Bryce’s Portrait Style

How Jerry Ghionis Goes A Few Steps Beyond the Expected Portrait Session